Arm Ninja 250fi" 35 barang. cap swingarm swing arm cover rangka tutup rangka ninja 250fi 250 z250 z 250 6 mei 2018. Rp100.000. 5 Terjual 1 Jakarta Selatan. motorku shop. Arm Suspensi Arm Unitrack Unitrak New Ninja 250fi 2018 Original Kawasaki. Rp722.700 Biasanya, mendeteksi mesin Kawasaki Ninja 250 FI yang pincang pakai alat yang namanya Vakum Meter (VM). Bentuk VM persis seperti Termometer, tapi bedanya terdapat 4 slang dan di dalam alat VM terdapat fluida. Ada 4 slang dan tabung pada VM, menandakan kalau VM itu bisa dipakai untuk motor yang bermesin hingga 4 silinder. Dengankeunggulan yang kompetitif Kawasaki Ninja 250 FI ini siap bertarung dengan produk lainnya yaitu Yamaha R 25 dan CBR 250 serta motor 250 cc lainnya. Menurut pendapat pribadi Mas Sena peforma motor sport ini adalah yang tertinggi dari para kompetitor yang akhirnya juga mengharuskan anda mengeluarkan budget yang lebih besar untuk memiliki Kawasaki Ninja 250 FI ini. Amountsshown in italicized text are for items listed in currency other than Canadian dollars and are approximate conversions to Canadian dollars based upon Bloomberg's conversion. Venom x22R 250cc full size motorcycle. CXR 250cc RTS 250 Dongfang Motorcycle fast pocket rocket in stock 125cc cheap price bike dong fang street legal motorcycle yamaha 250cc Motorcycle Ninja Motorcycle 250cc ninja Vay Nhanh Fast Money. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Specifications & Features The Kawasaki Ninja 250 is offered Petrol engine in the Indonesia. The new Sport from Kawasaki comes in a total of 6 variants. If we talk about Kawasaki Ninja 250 engine specs then the Petrol engine displacement is 249 cc. Ninja 250 is available with Manual transmission. The Ninja 250 is a 2 Seater Sport and has a length of 1990 mm the width of 710 mm, and a wheelbase of 1370 mm. along with a ground clearance of 145 mm. Read More Read Less Key Specs of Kawasaki Ninja 250 Category Petrol Sport Start Option Petrol Electric Front Brake Petrol Disc Maximum Power Petrol hp Displacement Petrol 249 cc Technical Specifications of Kawasaki Ninja 250 Standard Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 66,9 Million Engine & Performance Dimension Fuel & Ignition Gear & Transmission Wheels & Tyres Chassis & Suspension Displacement 249 cc Maximum Power hp Exhaust Pipes 2 into 1 Exhaust Maximum Torque Nm Engine Type Parallel Twin Cylinder, 8 Valves, 4-Stroke, Liquid Cooled Engine Cooling System Liquid Cooled No. Of Strokes 4-Stroke Clutch Type Wet Multi-Plate, Manual Compression Ratio Top Speed 170 kmph Bore X Stroke 62 mm x mm Drive Type Chain Drive Injection Type Fuel Injection No. Of Cylinder 2 Valves Per Cylinder 4 Valve Configuration DOHC Fuel Tank Size 14 L Category Sport Kerb Weight 163 kg Seat Height 795 mm Seating Capacity 2 Seats Length 1990 mm Ground Clearance 145 mm Height 1125 mm Wheel Base 1370 mm Width 710 mm Ignition System Digital Start Option Electric Fuel Type Petrol Transmission Type Manual Gear Box 6-Speed Tyre Type Radial Front Tyre 110/70 R17 Rear Tyre 140/70 R17 Front Wheel Size R17 Rear Wheel Size R17 Rear Suspension Bottom Link Uni-Trak Front Suspension Telescopic Fork ABS MDP SE Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 78,9 Million ABS SE Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 79,3 Million Standard Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 66,9 Million Safety & Security Console Electrical Chassis & Suspension Brake Differentiating Features ABS No Pass Switch Yes Engine Check Warning Yes Riding Modes Sport Central Locking No Wheel Lock Front/back No Back Rest No Launch Control No Leg Guards No Shutter Lock No Side Reflectors Yes Odometer Digital Fuel Gauge Digital Display Screen Yes Navigator No Tachometer Analog Speedometer Digital Oil Change Indicator Yes Tripmeter Yes Side Stand Indicator No Adjustable Headlights Yes Accessory Outlet No Battery Voltage 12 V Tail Lamp LED Head Lamp LED Indicator Light Yes Body Frame Material Steel Chrome Garnish Yes Side Wings Yes Body Frame Type Trellis Type Seat Type Dual Stepped Front Brake Disc Rear Brake Disc Cruise Control No Height Adjustable Seats No ABS MDP SE Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 78,9 Million ABS SE Sport, Petrol, Manual Rp 79,3 Million Ninja 250 Features Highlights Head Lamp The front and rear lights are LED technology. The headlight design looks narrower but not too tapered, so the effect still looks wide according to the big bike look theme. Read More Speedometer The instrument panel combination of digital and analog has actually begun to be abandoned for the motor sport segment. But for some people, the conventional needle on the speedometer still gives an interesting impression. Read More Anti-Theft Alarm The smart lock is equipped with Kawasaki's Intelligent Proximity Activation Start System KIPASS technology. So to start the engine, you no longer need to enter the key. Read More Rear Suspension Front shock absorbers 41mm in diameter. Then for the rear use the Uni-Trak System with Gas-Shock Model which has 5-level adjustment. Read More Front Brake In order for the braking system to be more optimal, it is equipped with 330 mm front discs and 220 mm rear discs. Better braking capability. There is also an anti-lock braking system ABS option for consumers who are ready to spend more money. Read More Top Models by Features design comfort safety Compare Variants of Ninja 250 by Specs Petrol Petrol Manual Pass Switch Indicator Light Adjustable Headlights Chrome Garnish Side Wings Engine Check Warning Display Screen Oil Change Indicator Side Reflectors Tripmeter View More View Discounted Paket Compare Kawasaki Ninja 250 With Similar Bikes Honda CBR250RRRp 63,46 - 75,66 Million CBR250RR Specs & Features Yamaha YZF R25Rp 63,45 - 70,56 Million YZF R25 Specs & Features Kawasaki Ninja ZX-25RRp 105 - 123,5 Million Ninja ZX-25R Specs & Features Yamaha MT-25Rp 57,22 Million Yamaha MT-25 Specs & Features Displacement 250 250 Maximum Power 38 51 Clutch Type Multi-Plate, Wet Clutch with Coil Spring Wet, Multi-Plate, Manual Wet, Multi-Plate, Manual Wet Maximum Torque Nm Nm Nm Nm Engine Type Parallel Twin Cylinder, 4-Stroke, 8-Valve, Liquid Cooled, DOHC Engine Inline 2 Cylinder, 4-Stroke, 4-Valve, Liquid-Cooled DOHC Inline 4 Cylinder, 4-Stroke, 16 Valves, Liquid Cooled DOHC Engine 2 Cylinder, 4-Stroke, 4-Valves DOHC, Liquid Cooled Engine ABS No No No No Riding Modes Sport, Road Sport, Road Sport, Road, Race Sport, Road Front Brake Disc Disc Disc Disc Ninja 250 vs CBR250RR Ninja 250 vs YZF R25 Ninja 250 vs Ninja ZX-25R Ninja 250 vs Yamaha MT-25 Discover New Bikes Sport Kawasaki Featured Bikes Popular Upcoming Kawasaki Ninja 250 Videos Watch latest video reviews of Kawasaki Ninja 250 to know about its performance, mileage, styling and more. Ninja 250 Videos Kawasaki Ninja 250 Questions & Answers FAQs What is the Engine Capacity of Kawasaki Ninja 250? What are the Safety Features Available in Kawasaki Ninja 250? Kawasaki Ninja 250 safety features are ABS, Pass Switch, Engine Check Warning and Side Reflectors Helpful 67 The unfortunate issue is that if the check engine light does not come on and stay on, the dealer may not be able to help. Dealers like to have a repeatable issue. Talk to your dealer, explain the situation, and next time this happens, do not turn the bike off, but ride to the dealer - keep the bike started, and have him see the bike immediately. Find out if the ECU keeps a log of issues. Electrical gremlins can disappear when the bike is shut off. Good luck. Having the images helps, however knowing anything unusual that led to the appearance of the FI /check engine codes are more valuable. It has been noted before that the system resets itself after a few driving cycles occur IF there is not a true problem. Being you have such a low mileage bike and have already had this occur. I would have the dealer check all the electrical connections including the grounds and or any stored codes while in Dealer Mode. Good luck. The unfortunate issue is that if the check engine light does not come on and stay on, the dealer may not be able to help. Dealers like to have a repeatable issue. Talk to your dealer, explain the situation, and next time this happens, do not turn the bike off, but ride to the dealer - keep the bike started, and have him see the bike immediately. Find out if the ECU keeps a log of issues. Electrical gremlins can disappear when the bike is shut off. Good luck. I was hoping the ECM stored the codes so they could be retrieved later. I was about 100 miles from home, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, when it popped up. Nothing unusual happened, I was cruising along about 65 mph on a beautiful, sunny day. I don't think I had enough fuel to make it to the closest dealer. Having the images helps, however knowing anything unusual that led to the appearance of the FI /check engine codes are more valuable. It has been noted before that the system resets itself after a few driving cycles occur IF there is not a true problem. Being you have such a low mileage bike and have already had this occur. I would have the dealer check all the electrical connections including the grounds and or any stored codes while in Dealer Mode. Good luck. Thanks, I'll do have the dealer look at it. It seems from the masses of 650 owners of recent model years this issue is very isolated in nature. But it's good practice to rule out anything warranty related with the dealer as soon as possible. The service record should be saved and stored away safely for future reference. If it happens again without reason The issue could possibly be in the ECU. You do not want to be on the hook for this so let the dealership near you figure out whats wrong. If you frequently ride a good distance from home , keep in mind in severe cases if shut off the bike may not start up again. In limp home mode it will run with the FI code on the dash. The more severe case will not allow the engine to run. Then tow truck option... See less See more At 300 miles on a new bike I got a check engine light and the FI message. A quick internet search tells me that this is a fairly common occurrence, but I didn't find any real fix fix for the issue. The check engine light went away the fifth time I went through the start cycle and hasn't come back. Should I take it to the dealer or just wait to see if it happens again? I had the F1 light come on while travelling in the Sahara desert this past summer. I had done a lot of pre-maintenance to my motorcycle before leaving, and this was nothing short of shock and horror! I rode to a nearby gas station and shut the bike off. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and it started right back up with no F1 light on. That was on my mind for the duration of the trip especially stopping in the Sahara to take pictures and wondering if I would have an issue with it. But nothing ever came of it. Maybe I was Lucky... There are a host of things that can cause this condition, Bad gas, Fuel stabilzer too much of or too old, Electrical, As in ECU, Harness connections, Battery connections. Even periods of high speed and decelleration in gear can trigger this code. So it is a general code not just one specific reason why. I personally have not had this happen on my bike with almost 2400 miles on it. I don't baby it and make use of the power band when deemed nessesary. . I try to store it when not ridden with a full fresh tank of gas and rarely use any stabilzer. I do ride in winter months if above 50 degree's. So storage is not a real issue for me. See less See more There are a host of things that can cause this condition, Bad gas, Fuel stabilzer too much of or too old, Electrical, As in ECU, Harness connections, Battery connections. Even periods of high speed and decelleration in gear can trigger this code. So it is a general code not just one specific reason why. I personally have not had this happen on my bike with almost 2400 miles on it. I don't baby it and make use of the power band when deemed nessesary. . I try to store it when not ridden with a full fresh tank of gas and rarely use any stabilzer. I do ride in winter months if above 50 degree's. So storage is not a real issue for me. I had no idea bad gas or fuel stabilizer could be a problem that would activate the F1 light. My understanding was that it was electrical within the fuel system. Good to know! If the engine stumbles cough - hickup what ever it can cause an error code to be generated. Many times the issue will pass after a few driving cycles and the ECU will reset. code goes away but still stored in memory. If the issue is a hard fault then the code will not reset and could result in a no start condition. And Yes the ECU computer controls the fuel injection which is monitored as long as the engine is running. The FI is actually fault indicator Not Fuel injection per say but a general indication of a fault in one or more of the parameters monitored by the ECU. See less See more OWNER CENTER Welcome, Kawasaki owners. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. OWNER CENTER Welcome, Kawasaki owners. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. Troubleshooting Guide ○Refer to the Fuel System chapter of the Service Manual for most of the DFI trouble shooting guide. ○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties. Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty Starter motor not rotating Ignition and engine stop switch not ON Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low Starter relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Starter system wiring shorted or open Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over Vehicle-down sensor DFI coming off Starter clutch trouble Starter idle gear trouble Engine won’t turn over Valve seizure Valve lifter seizure Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Camshaft seizure Starter idle gear seizure No fuel flow No fuel in tank Fuel pump trouble Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel filter clogged Fuel line clogged No spark; spark weak Vehicle-down sensor DFI coming off Ignition switch not ON Engine stop switch turned OFF Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral Battery voltage low Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted Spark plug incorrect Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Stick coil trouble ECU trouble Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted Starter system wiring shorted or open Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown Fuel/air mixture incorrect Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted Air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather hose or air cleaner drain cap. Compression Low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak No valve clearance Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Poor Running at Low Speed Spark weak Battery voltage low Stick coil trouble Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Pilot passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel pump trouble Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Compression low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Camshaft cam worn Run-on dieseling Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Fuel injector trouble Loosen terminal of battery – cable or ECU ground lead Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface Engine overheating Other ECU trouble Throttle body assy not synchronizing Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Clutch slipping Engine overheating Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble Poor Running or No Power at High Speed Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect Stick coil shorted or not in good contact trouble Stick coil trouble ECU trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner duct loose Water or foreign matter in fuel Throttle body assy holder loose Fuel to injector insufficient Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel line clogged Fuel pump trouble Compression low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Knocking Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Miscellaneous Throttle valve won’t fully open Brake dragging Clutch slipping Engine overheating Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Camshaft cam worn Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating KLEEN Overheating Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Muffler overheating For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running Request the nearest service facility to correct it For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine ECU trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Compression high Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty Clutch slipping Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Lubrication inadequate Engine oil level too low Engine oil poor quality or incorrect Gauge incorrect Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken Coolant incorrect Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated Wrong coolant mixed ratio Cooling system component incorrect Radiator fin damaged Radiator clogged Thermostat trouble Radiator cap trouble Radiator fan relay trouble Fan motor broken Fan blade damaged Water pump not turning Water pump impeller damaged Over Cooling Gauge incorrect Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken Cooling system component incorrect Thermostat trouble Clutch Operation Faulty Clutch slipping Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn No clutch lever play Clutch inner cable trouble Clutch release mechanism trouble Clutch not disengaging properly Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring compression uneven Engine oil deteriorated Engine oil viscosity too high Engine oil level too high Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch hub nut loose Clutch hub spline damaged Clutch friction plate installed wrong Clutch lever play excessive Clutch release mechanism trouble Gear Shifting Faulty Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose Shift mechanism arm broken Shift pawl broken Pawl spring broken Jumps out of gear Shift fork ear worn, bent Gear groove worn Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn Shift fork guide pin worn Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Overshifts Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken Pawl spring broken Abnormal Engine Noise Knocking ECU trouble Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Overheating Piston slap Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston pin hole worn Valve noise Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft bearing worn Valve lifter worn Other noise Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck Piston ring groove worn Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mount loose Crankshaft bearing worn Primary gear worn or chipped Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn Air suction valve damaged Air switching valve damaged Alternator rotor loose Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating KLEEN Abnormal Drive Train Noise Clutch noise Clutch damper weak or damaged Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive Clutch housing gear worn Transmission noise Bearings worn Transmission gear worn or chipped Metal chips jammed in gear teeth Engine oil insufficient Drive line noise Drive chain adjusted improperly Drive chain worn Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear wheel misaligned Abnormal Frame Noise Front fork noise Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken Rear shock absorber noise Shock absorber damaged Disc brake noise Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped Caliper trouble Other noise Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened Oil Pressure Warning Indicator Light Goes On Engine oil pump damaged Engine oil screen clogged Engine oil filter clogged Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Camshaft bearing worn Crankshaft bearing worn Oil pressure switch damaged Wiring faulty Relief valve stuck open O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged Exhaust Smokes Excessively White smoke Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn Engine oil level too high Black smoke Air cleaner clogged Brown smoke Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory Handlebar hard to turn Cable routing incorrect Hose routing incorrect Wiring routing incorrect Steering stem nut too tight Steering stem bearing damaged Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tire air pressure too low Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates Tire worn Swingarm pivot bearing worn Rim warped, or not balanced Wheel bearing worn Handlebar mounting bolt loose Steering stem nut loose Front, rear axle runout excessive Engine mounting nut loose Handlebar pulls to one side Frame bent Wheel misalignment Swingarm bent or twisted Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive Steering maladjusted Front fork bent Right and left front fork oil level uneven Shock absorption unsatisfactory Too hard Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard Tire air pressure too high Front fork bent Too soft Tire air pressure too low Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low Rear shock adjustment too soft Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak Rear shock absorber oil leaking Brake Doesn’t Hold Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Brake fluid leakage Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder Master cylinder scratched inside Battery Trouble Also see Motorcycle Battery & Battery Charging Tips- Motorcycle Battery & Battery Charging Tips Battery discharged Charge insufficient Battery faulty too low terminal voltage Battery cable making poor contact Load excessive bulb of excessive wattage Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty Regulator/rectifier trouble Battery overcharged Alternator trouble Regulator/rectifier trouble Detailed Review by Maxabout Team Overview Kawasaki offers a chic sports bike called the Ninja 250. This year's updates include a new design, new paint jobs, and modernised graphics. There are two versions of this elegant supersport available the normal model and the KRT Edition. A 4-stroke parallel-twin engine with excellent performance powers it. In some nations, the Ninja 250's most recent model has been released. It won't be introduced in India any time soon, though. Instead of India, this Kawasaki 250cc supersport is primarily targeted at various south Asian nations. Additionally, India receives the Ninja 300, thus its launch here may be delayed. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 will only be released in India if the brand decides to replace the Ninja 300. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Design and Style 2023 Kawasaki Ninja 250 has a stylish design that draws inspiration from its larger Ninja brothers. It receives a pair of ultra-sleek dual-LED headlamp setups that give it a face like a bird. The front set of turn indicators is on either side of the side fairings, which also feature the Ninja emblem on them. The Ninja 250 has a dynamic appearance thanks to its powerful fuel tank and upswept tail portion. With a kerb weight of just 167 kg, the Ninja 250 is among the lightest supersport bikes in the 250cc class. It has a 1370 mm wheelbase, which is 10 mm shorter than that of its hyper sports sibling, the Kawasaki Ninja ZX25R, 145 mm of ground clearance, and a 795 mm seat height. The Kawasaki Ninja measures 1990 mm in length overall and has a 14-litre fuel tank. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Engine and Performance It comes with a 249cc parallel-twin, DOHC, 8-valve, four-stroke engine as standard equipment. It makes use of a dual-throttle electronic fuel-injection system. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 is equipped with a 6-speed gearbox, an assist system, and a slipper clutch. The DOHC engine has an compression ratio and comes with a liquid-cooling system. At 12,500 RPM, the new Kawasaki Ninja 250 generates a maximum power of 39 HP and a maximum torque of Nm. Due to stricter emission compliance, the new model's output of both power and torque has been decreased. The Ninja 250 delivers power in a controlled and smooth manner. It has a top speed of nearly 175 km/h and it returns a combined mileage of around 32 km/l. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Suspension, Brakes and Tyres The larger bike from the Ninja series' steel trellis frame serves as its foundation. 2023 Kawasaki Ninja 250 has bottom link uni-trak mono-shocks at the back and 41mm telescopic forks up front. Its rear mono-shock has adjustable preload settings and a gas spring. A 310mm petal disc brake at the front wheel and a 220mm petal disc brake at the rear wheel are responsible for stopping the vehicle. Key Features of Kawasaki Ninja 250 Headlamps with dual-LED distinct beams are standard on the new Kawasaki Ninja 250. The two-beam headlamps are strong, brilliant, and provide excellent visibility. It has recognisable Ninja LED tail lamps that look really fashionable. While the rear indicators are mounted on an extended tail, the front set is mounted on the fairing. Like its larger Ninja siblings, the Ninja 250 has a cluster of semi-digital instruments. The rest of the information is shown on a multifunction LCD console, except for an analogue tachometer. The speedometer, tachometer, trip metre, engine temperature, and time are all shown on the LCD console. It also displays real-time fuel usage and a gear position indication. The Kawasaki Ninja 250's instrument console is well-designed and provides all the necessary information. Although the split step-up seat design on the new Kawasaki Ninja 250 looks athletic. But it is not practical for pillion passengers on lengthy excursions. It has very lightweight foot-pegs made of high-quality aluminium. The switch gears are ideally positioned and simple to access while riding. It receives a somewhat bulky side-mounted exhaust muffler. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Price If Kawasaki intends to sell the Ninja 250cc in India, it will cost around the same as the Ninja 300. It will rank among the most expensive sporting motorcycles in the 250cc class. In India, the Kawasaki Ninja 250 is anticipated to cost around 2,80,000 INR. It may rank among Kawasaki's best-selling motorcycles in India if they are successful in setting a competitive price. Kawasaki Ninja 250 Competitors One of the most competitive markets in the Indian and global motorcycle business is the 250-300cc range. This market has a number of excellent supersport bikes that can hold their own against the Ninja 250. The Honda CBR250RR, KTM RC 250, and Yamaha R25 are its main rivals. If the Kawasaki Ninja 250 is introduced in India, it will face competition from the TVS Apache RR310 and KTM RC390 since they are all priced similarly. Both the Apache RR310 and the RC390 provide good value for the money they cost. If Kawasaki can set a competitive price, it could be a huge hit in India. Conclusion 2023 Kawasaki Ninja 250 is a stunning motorcycle with a crisp, streamlined look that draws inspiration from its brothers. It has a contemporary, dynamic design thanks to the employment of high-end components including an LED headlight, body-mounted indicators, and an upswept tail. It has a solid build quality, a premium appearance, and an excellent overall fit and finishes. Although it is not the strongest bike in its class, it is nevertheless able to keep up with its rivals. The Ninja 250's 249cc engine produces a solid 39 horsepower. The new updated 2023 model's reduced power and torque output is the result of a stricter emission standard. It is enjoyable to ride because of its smooth and linear power delivery. Although it lacks USD front forks like its rivals, the 41 mm telescopic forks are more than adequate. There is sufficient stopping force provided by the 310mm front and 220mm rear discs, and dual-channel ABS is also included. Its exceptional handling is a result of the stiff and responsive trellis frame on which it is built. 2023 Ninja 250cc is compact and performs admirably. It offers a sporty yet comfortable riding position, so you may ride it for both long-distance touring and daily commuting. It has a sturdy build, a gorgeous appearance, and a powerful motor. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 is the ideal 250cc sports bike and offers a great package.

check engine ninja 250 fi